Trip Review – April 2013 Conch Charter Bareboat, 32’  Beneteau “Got No Strings” Tim and Beth Beutell

What an experience and what an adventure in a most beautiful  place.

In the fall of 2012, my wife and I made a decision to  research a vacation in the BVI and to charter a sailboat to explore the  islands. We had heard from a friend how much they enjoyed it a few years ago  and with our experience on our 30 ft Catalina over the past 15 years on a large  inland lake thought we should give the bareboat option a try.   

In February, after reviewing the VI Sailing website, I made  a connection to Melody Delgado, and booked a 32’ Beneteau with Conch Charters (7  days beginning on April 16h) out of Fort Burt Marina on Tortola, BVI. Melody  was very helpful in the selection of the charter since it would be our first  time in those waters and just the two of us crewing it. The Beneteau 323 was a  wonderful boat and very manageable from the cockpit with lines, cleats, and  easily accessible winches all logically located.

A very good chart briefing with excellent information on a  “north swell” expected later in the week preceded our boat checkout at the  slip. During the boat briefing, we told the staff that we had never needed to  use a mooring ball where we have sailed and even though I had viewed the online  video several times, it was wonderful to have guided practice in the harbor  before heading out to Norman Island for the night. The training led us to  decide to have Beth handle the wheel and engine while I hooked the pendant, ran  the lines through, and cleat them on the bow.   

Line of sight sailing with a GPS plotter on the helm made  our first “crossing” from Road Town to Norman and The Bight a comfortable  event.   With an easterly wind and just the jib, we cruised at 5kts for our first  leg. We opted to keep it simple and not use the mainsail that was already  reefed at reef 1; a good preset we would know in a day or two.  Our only anxiety was wondering how you find an  available mooring with an ETA of 6p at the Bight when we had read that later in  the day they could be hard to come by.

Well, since it was Tuesday the 16th not a weekend,  we had no problem finding a mooring ball and with Beth at the helm and me with  boathook on the bow, we comfortably fetched the pendant, ran the bowlines  through and secured ourselves for the evening. A very good feeling of “boating  job satisfaction” and gratitude to Ross at Conch Charters for his mooring tips  made for a real fine end to our first day into BVI sailing.  The winds and weather were about to perk up,  but we didn’t know that yet!  We slept  soundly with a gentle rocking of the boat as the wind would swing us on the  mooring.   

Early in the morning, we used the dinghy to head over to The  Caves to checkout the snorkeling and swimming.  Water clarity was simply incredible.   Mid morning, light rain and grey clouds began to come over  the hilltops at The Bight and with a forecast from VHF CH 6 indicating a  significant amount of wind and showers coming our way from the east, we elected  to get underway and head to Soper’s Hole/West End of Tortola Island. Our  planned itinerary of going NE to Virgin Gorda for a full day of sailing was  completely ditched for a more modest and quick run along the western side of  Sir Francis Drake Channel. We were very glad we did this.

We used a full jib once again, with no main, due to a 20-25  knot gusty blow and lots of rain. The boat rode nicely over the waves, but we did  get drenched from the rain and tired from the workout.  At least it was a warm rain! With some  tacking to get near the SW corner of Tortola, we then rolled up the jib and  motored through the channel near Frenchman’s Cay and on into the harbor area of  Soper’s Hole/West End.  The Conch Charter  chart briefing was helpful in advising when and where to do motoring vs.  sailing for boat traffic and sea conditions near channels.

At Soper’s Hole, we once again praised Ross (Conch Charters)  for his training on the mooring ball retrieval; especially with the fickle high  winds coming directly through the east side of Soper’s Hole.  Mooring ball pickup No 2 – no problem!  Beth’s confidence on the helm was climbing  like an F-18 and I was feeling very good about our teamwork handling the boat  with just the two of us in this new environment.

The winds would continue to blow for all afternoon and  night, but the rain became intermittent and we enjoyed getting ashore and  seeing some of the local shops, streets, marina, and restaurants.  After we got back aboard just before dark, I  checked the security of the lines, sails and dinghy as Beth made us some coffee  to enjoy in the cockpit while observing the sounds and sights of the harbor at  night. This became a nightly tradition. We usually fell asleep at 10p.

      In the morning (Day 3) I used the cell phone provided by  Conch to call the office and get an update on the weather prognosis directly  from them due to a “small craft advisory” being mentioned on CH 6. I reassured  Beth that our boat was designed to handle what was expected on a sail that day  to Jost Van Dyke and we would use the reefed main. Another day of waves and  wind with tacking put us into Little Harbor in early afternoon. Again, Beth put  me right on the mooring ball for the pendant pick up and we proceeded to  Sydney’s for a late lunch and some shopping. 

While walking around the area of Little Harbor and knowing  that the forecast called for 20 to 30 kts with 5-7 ft seas, I asked a group of  sailors about how they might handle the next day heading out. They suggested  that we set minimum sails and have the engine engaged with a low rpm. The prop  wash helped with adding more rudder authority when the wave action obviously  varied the power in the sails and also the amount of water over the rudder at  times – most helpful for holding a course and executing smooth, consistent  tacking.

We used this technique for the next 2 days as we left the  next morning – Day 4. And, yes, the winds stayed as predicted even at night for  the next 2 days.

We continued to modify our original itinerary due to the  wind and sea conditions, but have no regrets at having had to do so. Since this  was our first time with a bareboat in the Caribbean, it was a huge adventure  just to experience a different sailboat from our own Catalina 30 along with  navigating and sailing in a completely new area. We worked hard at being safe  and conservative and gained confidence with each passing day.    By Day 4 we really settled into a nice routine  living aboard, sailing, using the dinghy, swimming, and visiting the beach and  harbors we moored in.  Late on Day 5, a  significant decrease in the winds and that north swell treated us to what I  would say are the scenes depicted in The Cruising Guide and website videos from  VI Sailing.    Days, 5, 6, and 7 were absolutely beautiful and relaxing.  A most rewarding way to finish this charter and  leave us wanting to return again soon.

I cannot wrap up this trip review without saying enough about  how much we enjoyed the conversations we had with so many wonderful people we  encountered. On the docks, at the cafes, at shops, and at the restaurants –  everyone was friendly and approachable.   And as it happens often in our other travels, we even ran into some people  who are from within 10 miles of our home in Minnesota.

A tip of the hat, my new Tortola BVI cap of course, to the  excellent support of the Conch Charter team before, during, and conclusion of  our booked charter. I also appreciated the hotel recommendation of Melody  Delgado. We elected to come in a day early and stay a day longer on Tortola and  greatly enjoyed Marie’s By the Sea.

So, with the excellent recommendation of Melody Delgado, the  professional support of the Conch Charter staff, and a great boat, my wife and  I can say that we will be back. We also have already found some other sailors  in our Minnesota area who are now interested in BVI.   

Thanks again for a superior vacation experience in a fine  part of the hemisphere.

Tim and Beth Beutell
      April 2013

Conch Charters
Beneteau 32